Barristers Nursery

Bush Roses – Easy To Have Around!

STELLA BINNS — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:20:48 +0000

There are several spectacular bush roses readily available to us in our local nurseries, some are well know to the avid gardener, while others, to my amazement, still remain unfamiliar. Needless to say, they are no substitute for stem roses if you want cut flowers in the house (stem roses hold the flower longer once cut, give you much more length on a longer stem and are unlimited in variety and color.) Bush roses on the other hand are very heavy bloomers, generally don’t get any taller than 2’ to 3’ and require “shearing” rather than pruning in January. In addition to all these good traits, they generally are pest and disease free. Rust and black spot, the major troublemakers to roses, seem to play a lesser role with bush roses. They work wonderfully as a showy hedge or can be incorporated in planting areas to compliment your existing landscape. The most impressive ones, and the lesser known are:

Tomora – 3’ high
Compact rose, with gorgeous apricot-pink-yellow flower. Shaped like deep cups in the style of the romantic roses of past centuries. Leaves have a red tinge to them which makes a stunning contrast to the flower. Scented.

Gruss aus Bayern (Greetings from Bavaria)
Deep red, medium sized flowers. Heavy bloomer. Blooms practically all year round. Easily grows to 3’, maybe a little taller.

Simplicities
White and red simplicities are very attractive and take quite a bit of shade compared to other bush roses. When kept at about 2’ they are generally quite good bloomers, not anywhere as impressive as the (other two) above mentioned, and fill out nicely. Left to grow any taller they tend to look rather “skinney”. They also come in pink and yellow. The pink is definitely the least attractive of the bunch. The yellow is awfully good looking. The leaf is such a dark green, and shiny, so it complements the yellow wonderfully.
In my opinion, these are excellent choices for your garden. All roses need full sun, light afternoon shade (later in the day) is good in the hot months. Remember, good drainage is essential, as with all plants, and don’t forget to feed them throughout the growing season. If you mulch the soil around the base of the rose, you will help conserve the moisture and keep down the weeds at the same time.

No two hillsides are the same!

STELLA BINNS — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:16:55 +0000

No two hillsides are the same!
Many customers come into the nursery inquiring about plants that would be suitable for a hillside. Although this is a direct question, it is not always possible to give a direct answer if we know nothing about “your” hillside. How steep is it? Is it a hillside you can actually “meander” through? Does it have easy access for maintenance? Are you looking out onto the hillside from your kitchen window or your main room and therefore wish to have something really eye-catching? Is it very sunny? Does it have any irrigation? Are there steps going up to the top where you can have a “look-out” bench? Etc., etc., etc….. You can understand how your question is not possible to answer without acquiring a great deal of information before we can make any suggestions.
Also, we don’t know what your garden looks like! Is it Japanese-inspired, contemporary, or full of California natives and grasses? Does it matter if it has a “style” or would a good ground cover do? So, if you do intend to plant your hillside or slope this year, here are some suggestions to consider.
AGAVES can be an excellent choice if that’s a look you like and will work in your existing landscape. There is a wide selection of very attractive varieties available to us in California, so shop around. Many of them spread 3’ – 5’, which covers a lot of hillside! As well as being (relatively) low maintenance, they require little water. So the more they spread, the fewer plants you need to buy.
GRASSES too, are excellent options. There are so many stunning grasses in California — the selection is endless. Since they come in every color, texture and height, it doesn’t take very much work to “create” a lot of interest with very little effort. Most grasses are “clumping” in their growth habit and do not spread very wide — unlike succulents and agaves. You can, however, do a combination of succulents and grasses, which can look really spectacular.
GROUNDCOVERS — It is important to differentiate between groundcovers that have a superficial root system, compared to those that are intended to “knit” the soil together. Those with a more superficial root system are good purely for “filling in” between plantings for effect, on flat ground. For a hillside, you need a more substantial root system that will help hold the hillside (soil) in place. Some common ground covers, such as ivy, or vinca major, work very well in certain locations. However, using perennials that work like ground covers is generally the best way to deal effectively, long-term, with a hillside – and create more interest, too.

When Irish Eyes are Smiling

STELLA BINNS — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:14:53 +0000

Charles the Gardner-It’s time to acknowledge a job well done.

Charles is the “old-time” gardener everyone would like to have tending their garden. He is a treasure of the past, knowing when to plant which bulbs where, the importance of cutting off the dead pods on the crape myrtle before the next bloom, and what’s ailing any plant just by looking at it.

Today the term “gardener” is often misunderstood and undervalued and I hesitate somewhat in describing him as a gardener, because he is SO MUCH MORE!

Unfortunately, Charles and I don’t see each other more than 3 or 4 times a year, but I’m always informed of his comings and goings by the growers we both purchase our plants from. On the occasions we do bump into each other, however, only minutes into our greeting our conversation automatically turns to the first blooming plants in view and he will always mention the next tree or shrub he is looking forward to seeing in bloom in the next upcoming season. The last time I saw Charles was in mid March. He had just loaded his truck with an impressive number of delphiniums and ranunculus for a client and was, in his words, “looking forward to planting these beauties” that very afternoon. The planting area was already prepared, he informed me. “The delphiniums”, he said, “ would be planted amongst the informal spirea, yarrow and iceberg roses”.” And the ranunculus, well,” he said, with such certainty in his voice that I wouldn’t have dared to question his decision, “they always look their best planted en mass in a circular bed of candytuft.” His hands all the while painting out the location of each plant variety – Charles talks about his plants with the same affection some people talk about their grandchildren!

After 30 years of gardening experience this Irishman from Donegal is in the enviable position of choosing his own clients – although he has never said this directly to me – I know it to be true. He reserves 3 days of his week to maintain several very big homes in an exclusive part of town and the other 3 days for landscaping and planting for his other clients and referrals. Charles says he never tires of his work because everyday, there is something new to appreciate and, in his line of work, no two days are ever alike. “Seeing the new buds appear on a favorite shrub or tree,” he says, “and knowing when you come back again in a few days time it will be in full bloom, that is a feeling that never gets old.”

He readily admits that over the years some of his plantings have given him a little more grief than others in getting established, “but you need patience,” he said in his strong Irish brogue. “Patience is the one thing nature teaches you when working with plant life – and saying a few Hail Mary’s, of course, doesn’t hurt either!”

Charles experienced long ago the spiritual bond that connects man and nature and this is what I meant when I said Charles is not “just” a gardener. He brings so much more to his work, and reaps the many rewards, too! As I left him that afternoon, I reminded myself to take heed of his good-natured advice. Herman Hesse, the German author and poet said, “Patience is the hardest thing in life to learn, but the most important.” I wanted to feel the same joy and wonder that Charles displayed on seeing the first delphiniums appear in the cool of February and our colorful neighboring ranunculus which remind us of the approaching spring in March.

I can’t wait to see the magnolias in bloom!

Baby, It’s Warm Outside!

STELLA BINNS — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:13:06 +0000

We are all concerned about our watering habits this time of year, and so we should be (and realizing that summer is just around the corner with even higher water demands can cause us to worry before it even arrives), but as with all things in life, worrying is not the solution – action is!
According to the Water District of Southern California 70% of our household water usage is for outdoor landscaping and pools. That statistic is staggering! With very little effort on our part we can make an astounding impact on our water usage, without feeling deprived or that we have to sacrifice our beloved plants.
Most homeowners, unbeknownst to them, usually overwater! So, this is our starting point. Before the days over go and look at your sprinkler system and determine how much water is being used and when. Before we actually start a landscape project we check the watering schedule of the client (mainly to see if they have a pattern of overwatering) and help them to water correctly, saving them water and MONEY! If you feel insecure about understanding how the system is set up, ask your gardener. Many gardeners are familiar with the sprinkler boxes and can help you understand how many minutes and how many days you have your system on. If he is unable to help, talk to your neighbor, you can help each other to save water and money while having a nice neighborly chat!
When you water is very important. You should water early in the morning when it is cooler and this allows the plants to “sit” in the moisture (which allows the water to really reach the roots of the plants) before the heat kicks in. Watering at 11:00 in the morning is not advisable, it’s far too late – once summer comes around the soil is already warm so the water has less of an impact on your plants and usually evaporates before it even hits the target! You don’t need to be watering everyday. Obviously, if your garden has a great deal of sun to contend with, you will require more water than a shade (or filtered light) garden, but watering everyday is not necessary. Always mulch – it is a great way to retain moisture in the soil and keep weeds down at the same time.
These are such minor changes, but very, very effective if we all “dig-in.”

RAISED-BED-BOX

STELLA BINNS — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:38:05 +0000

RAISED-BED-BOX

* PERFECT FOR YOUR VEGGIES AND HERBS
* VERY EASY TO SET UP
* REQUIRES 11 BAGS OF POTTING SOIL TO FILL 4′ X 4′ — $169.99
* MADE FROM 100% ROT RESISTANT CEDAR — WILL LAST FOR UP TO 10–11 YEARS

We Design and you Install — take the fear and expense out of your landscaping project!

STELLA BINNS — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 06:36:34 +0000

Barristers Nursery believes everybody deserves a beautiful garden.

Perhaps landscaping your property was part of your plan this year, but you decided to wait because of the cost. So, we decided to come up with a plan where everybody wins — you, your garden and the economy! We do the design, position the plants in your garden and you install — with your gardener’s help, of course!

Most homeowners are unsure of what plants will do well where and spend many years, and many more dollars, trying to figure it out. We will work with you to create the garden you would love to have by choosing the appropriate plantings for your setting.

What’s Your Style?

* Mediterranean

* English

* Water wise succulents and Californian natives

* Cottage

This is how it works. For each plan we selected the right trees and plant-life that will thrive in your garden. We will take the guessing out of the planting. No more planting shade plants in the sun! All designs can be tailored to your garden style and plant selection preference.

Each plan includes:

* 2 x 15 gallon trees, 30 x 5gallon container plants, 20 1gallon container plants and 8 bags of soil amendment.
* Available to you at $3000.00.

Of course, we are not limited to 4 design plans. If you have an established garden and wish to upgrade certain areas, we can consult with you for an hourly fee to review your property and custom design with complementary plant choices.

For more information contact us at barristers@sbcglobal.net.

Barristers Nursery
915 El Centro Avenue
South Pasadena, California 91030
Barristers Nursery & Gift Shop
626–441-1323

OUR MARCH SALE!

STELLA BINNS — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 20:06:38 +0000

SAVE UP TO 30% ON ALL BARBOUR HANDBAGS, SHIRTS AND BLOUSES AND SAVE 20% ON ALL LADIES AND MENS JACKETS AND COATS!
OUR SALE LASTS THROUGH MARCH 13TH
DON’T MISS IT!

Let’s Separate! I mean the agapanthus and daylilies, of course.

STELLA BINNS — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 20:05:36 +0000

If you have a lot of overgrown clumps of agapanthus and daylilies in your garden this is a perfect time to, not only dig them up and separate them, but to use them to fill in any empty spots you have in the rest of the garden.
If you’ve never done it before, digging up the clumps (of anything) that have been in the ground for a lengthy period of time requires a strong back and is physically very demanding (ask your gardener for help) — don’t do this alone. Also get him to stick around to help you separate them too.

Separating plants, particularly the above mentioned, is really quite easy. After they have been dug up they will still have a fair amount of soil attached to them (let’s assume each clump has 10 plants to it). You can do one of two things or your gardener can, with you supervising. Many gardeners don’t know how to separate plants so you can guide him through the process after reading these instructions.
Take the shovel and cut the clump into 4, just like cutting into a pie (12 to 6, 9 to 3) and cut off some of the soil still attached. You may have a little damage at the base of the plant but these plants are tuberous so it really doesn’t matter very much. Remove any dead foliage and then plant them as is — if the foliage is droopy, cut them back leaving just a couple of inches. Each planting (4) should consist of 2 to 3 agapanthus.
The second approach would be for you to use your hand shears to “loosen up” each plant to get 10 plants out of the clump. I would suggest, the first time around, use the shovel method as it will save you time and the plants will fill out sooner. Treat the day lilies the same way. Because lilies are much smaller than agapanthus, I would just cut the clumps into 4. Don’t even bother separating them individually, it isn’t worth your time. Day lilies should always be cut back before planting as they droop heavily once dug up.

As you know, there are a lot of varieties of agapanthus and day lilies, some short some tall, so when you dig them all up make sure you remember which are which and you plant them in the appropriate spots in the garden.

Let’s Get Acquainted — Meet the Coprosmas, one of the nicest plants you would wish to meet!

STELLA BINNS — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 20:01:20 +0000

This is a plant I cherish for many reasons and am always surprised how few people are familiar with this handsome family of plants.

Native to New Zealand, coprosmas are right at home in this part of the world. The glossy leaves and vibrant colors (the vast majority are variegated which adds to the appeal of this plant) are stunning. We have several varieties in the nursery and there is not a bad one amongst them. They do very well in shade and require very little maintenance — other than a little “shaping” throughout the year. Because their colors are so vibrant they are simply indispensable to a shade garden. Great container plants too!
Marble Queen — glossy green leaf with creamy white tips — medium sized leaf — gets 3′ high and 2′ wide. Looks gorgeous next to dark greens and whites.
Beatons Gold — yellow is the dominant color, with a tinge of green — very tiny leaf — this gets about 4′ high and 3′ wide — makes a smashing display of color.
Pink Splendor — the leaf has 3 colors to it — pink/yellow/green — stunning! — medium sized leaf — looks best kept at 3′ high, 2′ wide.
Rainbow Surprise — just the name conjures up an array of colors — also has 3 colors in the leaf, pink/green/yellow, pink being the dominant color — small leaf — slightly pointed — looks best at 3′ high, 2′ wide.
Kiwi Gold — tiny, glossy leaf — yellow being the dominant color with a splattering of green — works well as a trailing plant — can get to 3′ high with correct trimming — 2′ wide.
Cutie — strong green/brown leaf with tiny leaves — wonderful against whites — would work well as a low growing hedge — keep 3′ high, 2′ wide.
Evening Glow — green tends to dominate leaf with pink and yellow shaping the tips — keep 3′ high, spread 2′.
It is sometimes difficult for the homeowner to determine just how accurate the label is on plant containers. As accurate as it may be for the grower (if he is in San Diego or perhaps up north close to the water rather than inland) it is somewhat different for us in LA due to the hot summers — that can linger right into November! It is much hotter here than where these plants are actually grown. The information on the label is not to mislead you and it is generally very useful, but you may encounter a difference in plant growth — how high and how wide a plant grows — once you have planted it in the ground. On the container labels of coprosmas, for example, most of the above mentioned plants grow to be 4–5′. My advice is to keep them at 3′ (high) because they seem to flourish better than letting them get too tall.
But, when in doubt, just experiment! They may just reach their highest potential in your garden!f

Don’t forget the Camellias!

STELLA BINNS — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:59:29 +0000

It’s easy to overlook pruning camellias in January and February, when you’re out in the garden doing your yearly winter cleanup. As you know, camellias bloom in those months so obviously nobody wants to trim them when they are in full bloom. Depending on the type of weather we have been having and the variety of plants you have, camellias are usually over their bloom in March/April. So, make sure you make a notation on your calendar — for end of March early April — and see what it is that you need to do to keep them healthy and happy.

The vast majority of camellias usually look neglected, dense and woody. One reason for this is due to ‘forgetting’ to trim them after the blooming season. Another is, of course, believing that they can flourish on little water to no water. This is not true, at least not until they are fully established (around the 3rd year) and then you can water by need. Camellias don’t like to be overwatered but they also don’t like to be deprived of it either. Good drainage is absolutely essential for the success of these plants. Unfortunately it is common to see camellias planted in compacted soil and bone dry. Because you have the irrigation system on, you assume they are getting the required water, but if the soil is hard and compact any water you give them will just roll off the soil — the soil is so hard it is unable to penetrate and nourish the plant.

Camellias are not plagued with many problems, but they have a few — more often than not it is the homeowner that created them.
Poor drainage is the biggest problem for these plants — so if you want them to thrive and be healthy, make sure you work the soil well before planting and continue over the year(s) to observe the conditions they are living in. Plant the base of the plant slightly above ground to your soil level (like azaleas) and do not cover the plant with soil. Use lots of organic matter (peat moss/ground bark) when planting and cover the base with lots of mulch to keep the roots cool. They are acid loving plants so you need to fertilize with acid plant food (don’t over feed) available in all nurseries. If you experience heavy leaf drop or some burned leaf edges, it could be due to overfeeding.

Petal blight can be a problem — but if you start off with healthy habits with camellias it is less likely you will encounter this problem — the April pruning will be the first step in keeping it healthy. Petal blight is relatively easy to identify as the flowers and the edges of the leaves turn an ugly brown rather quickly. Always bag the fallen flowers/leaves and remove any diseased flowers still on the plant and throw them into the trash. It is wise to remove any fallen flowers throughout the year as this the very thing that will encourage the problem — keep the area clean!

So, the rest is up to you. Hermann Hesse said “if you love your roses, tend them.” Need I say more!